Small Town Survival Guide: Exploring alternative scenes in East London aka ‘Slummies’

Back in the good old days of print magazines, a mainstay of blunt mag was our coverage of the small town scenes that often escaped the hype and attention of the bigger South African cities. We always wanted to make sure that the alternative subcultures everywhere got some exposure and coverage, to ensure that nobody forgot they actually still exist and there is more to these places besides cow shit, rugby, brandewyn and braaivleis. 

Times have changed and we are now all digital, but this a motivation we still hang on to. A great example is the small city of East London in the Eastern Cape. Writer and ‘Slummies’ native Carmen Gee takes you on a survival guide-style tour through her home town’s ‘alt’ scenes of music, skateboarding, BMX, art and surfing (and milkshakes) and discovers some great spots and some legendary people along the way. Look them up if you are ever passing through. – bluntEd.

Words by Carmen Gee. Photos by Luke Goldschmidt @stokesurfphoto

East London. Some call it “the armpit of South Africa”, others call it “a nature lover’s paradise”. I call it home. Located on the rocky shores of the Indian Ocean, East London, a.k.a ‘Slum Town’ is a small city that tends to give rise to big opinions.

Personally, after being born, bred and spending my entire adolescence here, I couldn’t wait to get out of ‘Slummies’, as the locals affectionately call it. But following a decade of living my skater-graff-girl dreams in gritty Durban, I decided it was time to move back to my hometown and enjoy the simple life.

“There’s definitely a skate scene here, and it’s bigger than people realise. Just pull through to the park on the weekend and you’ll see for yourself.” – Local East London skater, Moagi Malebogo.

While I have wholeheartedly missed the vibrant street culture of bigger cities, I’ve also tried to embrace small town living. It’s been a bit of an adjustment for sure, but I’ve come up with a few survival tips that may come in handy whether you live here or are just visiting.

Go for a skate at Johno’s Skate Park

Located within Hams Country Club, Johno’s Skate Park is the hub for local skate and BMX culture. Thanks to the mellow miniramp and smaller obstacles, it’s a great spot for kids and beginners, although advanced skaters can still have an epic session here too. 

The skate park was developed by Johno Schutte, a local skating legend, who also started Johnos Skate Shop around two decades ago. Epitome is Johno’s very own brand of skate decks, which are known for their durable quality and affordability. His skate shoe brand, Maxam, is also worth checking out.

There are also a few street spots around, the town is not too big so drive around to see what you can find or ask around at the skatepark.

“There’s definitely a skate scene here, and it’s bigger than people realise,” says 25-year-old skater, Moagi Malebogo. “Just pull through to the park on the weekend and you’ll see for yourself.”

Get Inked at Brass Knuckle Tattoo Studio

If you want to feel as though you’ve been transported to Cape Town, London, Berlin, or some other far-off place, you need to check out Brass Knuckle Tattoo Studio on Beach Road. The shop is filled with antiques, racks of thrifted clothing, and statement-screaming art.

“With the rise of tattoo popularity in the media, people are actually pretty chilled. They’re more inquisitive than anything else.” – East London tattoo artist Daniel Lotz, when asked if he ever gets any funny looks or comments around town.

The shop is run by tattooer, Daniel Lotz, who spent years working at Kak Lucky Tattoos in Cape Town, and his partner, Cindy Kelly – a talented mosaic and visual artist who displays her work all over the deep red walls and overflowing shelves.“ We wanted the space to look like a Long Street tattoo shop from back in the day before they became minimalistic and filled with ferns,” says Lotz.

With tattoos covering his neck and most of his face, I had to ask if he ever got any funny looks from the EL locals. “Not really,” he says. “With the rise of tattoo popularity in the media, people are actually pretty chilled. They’re more inquisitive than anything else.”

Check Out the local music scene

Ryan Heathcote, also known as ‘Bugs’, is a pioneer in the local music scene and is most famous for being the first person in the world to shoot a music video while surfing a wave. I was lucky enough to catch him playing a mini-gig at Nahoon Beach, where he performed using a battery-powered amp. 

“For me, music and surfing will always go hand in hand, I believe the brain can’t express normal ‘everyday’ thoughts while you are out there surfing, but it seems to function in a musical way for sure,” says Ryan.

Most big-name bands tend to skip our humble city on their nationwide tours, but Bay Collective is changing that narrative by providing a first-class indoor event venue in Beacon Bay that’s recently welcomed Ard Matthews, Prime Circle, Matthew Mole, and éVoid among others.

Some of the local alt bands to keep your eye on include The Elevators, The Long Forties, Silver Mountain Creek Band, and Can of Worms.

Slide into Summies Surf Culture

Nahoon Reef aka The Reef is recognised as one of the best waves on the planet and has produced some of the most legendary surfers to ever come out of South Africa, including Greg Emslie, Wayne Monk, Royden Bryson, Rosy Hodge, and plenty of others. There are honestly too many to mention.

“Local surfers don’t have the same pretences that Cape Town and Durban surfers sometimes do. It’s not about what board you’re riding or what wetsuit you’re wearing, it’s about how well you can surf the Reef.” – Luke Goldshmidt, East London surfer and photographer.

“Local surfers don’t have the same pretences that Cape Town and Durban surfers sometimes do. It’s not about what board you’re riding or what wetsuit you’re wearing, it’s about how well you can surf the Reef,” says local surfer, Luke Goldshmidt (also the photographer for this piece).

Talking about boards, East London is home to a truly innovative shaper— the one and only Lampeez. This guy is always pushing the boundaries and experimenting with unique materials and unusual shapes. 

Nahoon Reef isn’t the only epic break around town. Local surfers are spoilt for choice when looking for a decent wave. Eastern Beach, Yellow Sands, Queensberry Point, Bonza Bay, and Gonubie are just a few of the favourites.

Keep an Eye Out for ‘BENS’

There is nothing that warms my anarchistic heart more than spotting a tag on the side of a bin or a throwie on a random wall somewhere. The graffiti scene in East London is lacking to say the least, but the one name you’ll spot all over town is BENS.

BENS certainly gets his name up there and you’ll see his handiwork under bridges and covering abandoned houses. While I haven’t noticed too many out-of-town names around, three I have seen are MARS, PLANK, and EYOS. If you’re looking for spots to bomb, you could try under the bridges in Abbotsford and the abandoned house at Kwelera Point. (You did not hear this from me).

While most residents turn up their noses at vandalism, they seem to find murals far more palatable. Local muralist, Nathan Sanan, has been adding colour and creativity to our dull city streets with his eye-catching murals, which usually depict detailed animals or famous faces.

Bored? Go on a Roadtrip

There is only so much time you can spend in East London before you start experiencing symptoms of cabin fever or small town syndrome. Fortunately, Slummies is surrounded by an array of charming little towns, including Bathurst, Hogsback, and Cintsa— all of which you can drive to in under two hours and perfect for a weekend away.

Bathurst is filled with old buildings, artisanal goods, and cute restaurants, while Hogsback is a nature lovers’ paradise with its stunning hiking trails and magnificent waterfalls.

If you need a proper dose of big-city living, you could take a drive to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) (approx 3 hours) and go for a skate at King’s Beach Skate Park or find some street spots, stroll along the promenade, and enjoy the bustling nightlife on offer. 

When in doubt, have a Friesland

Located amidst the rundown houses of the Quigney, Friesland Milk Bar appears in every ‘What To Do in East London’ article out there. In June 2024, the iconic milkshake bar celebrated its 100th birthday and now also boasts branches in Makhanda and Gqeberha.

You can’t go wrong with a double-thick butterscotch shake, as this sweet treat is sure to brighten even the dreariest of days in good ol’ Slumtown. 

One thing you need to have when living in East London is the right attitude. You can’t expect to be served up skate contests and tattoo conventions every weekend… or any weekend. You need to work with what you’ve got… a little resourcefulness and community connection go a long way.

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